by Monica Conrady

ith only five days to spend in a country as diverse as Sri Lanka, time is of the essence. We had to decide what we really wanted to see and experience, then hit the road running.

We flew from Trivandrum in South Indiato Colombo, Sri Lanka’s capital, where we were met by our pre-arranged driver and guide, the charming and knowledgeable Mubarak. Once through airport formalities, we headed straight for Dambulla and the Heritance Kandalama hotel. The stunning, award-winning, eco-friendly Kandalama is an excellent jumping-off point for the ancient cities. Sadly, we only had time to visit two.

… named, it is said, for his secret lady love …

Sigiriya, a World Heritage Site, is a massive, flat-topped rock fortress which rises sharply 260 feet above the plains. Legend has it that King Kassapa created a palace and garden on the summit in the 5th century AD. A new theory maintains that it was never a fortress or palace, but a Buddhist monastery built long before King Kassapa’s time. There are steps that zigzag to the top — approximately 2680 of them, up and down. And yes, we climbed them!

Polonnaruwa, another World Heritage Site, was once a royal capital, the remains of which tell of its former splendor. We wandered about, soaking up the feeling of tranquility to be found among the ancient stones.

Our next stop was Kandy, the lively capital of the Hill Country, last Royal Citadel, and home to Sri Lanka’s most important shrine, the Temple of the Tooth Relic. Not only were we lucky enough to be there for poya (full moon), when devout Buddhists visit the temple to make offerings and meditate, but we also witnessed a special perahera (procession) in honor of a visiting VIP. This involved dozens of colorful Kandyan dancers with drummers beating drums and cracking whips before three lavishly caparisoned (decorative coverings) elephants, one of which carried a replica of the sacred tooth relic cask.

From Kandy we made a side trip to the Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage, a government-run retreat for abandoned, injured or orphaned elephants. Twice a day around 60 elephants, including many babies, are led down to the river to bathe. Visitors may go in and give one a back scrub — a perfect photo op.

On to Nuwara Eliya (pronounced Nu-rel-iya), a former colonial hill station situated in the heart of Sri Lanka’s famed tea country. What with its country-style houses, the old Post Office, the Race Course, and the Hill Club with its traditional bar, safari trophies and golf course, it’s Very British indeed.

After a long drive to the south coast, which was heavily hit by the 2004 tsunami, our next ‘port-of-call’ was Galle (pronounced Gawl), with its 17th century Dutch colonial fort, also a World Heritage Site. It’s very atmospheric, with dramatic views of the town and the ocean from the ramparts and intriguing little streets to explore. We stayed at the delightfully romantic Galle Fort Hotel, a previously derelict 17th century Dutch merchant’s house now transformed into a boutique hotel.

And finally, Mt. Lavinia, just south of Colombo, where we spent our last night at the Mount Lavinia Hotel, overlooking the Indian Ocean. Built in 1836 as a residence for the then British governor and named, it is said, for his secret lady love , it was the perfect romantic finale to our whirlwind glimpse of Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka Tourist Board: www.srilankatourism.org.

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