by Gale Randall

very now and then I come across a resort that strikes me as outstanding in every respect. Such a place is the Shangri-La Caribe in Playa del Carmen, Yucatán. A relaxed Polynesian village of thatched cabañas overlooking powdery Coco Beach on the Mayan Riviera in eastern Yucatán, the Shangri-La is just a mile from the center of bustling and funky Playa del Carmen, yet light years away in ambiance.

“… the Shangri-La Caribe is an escapist’s South Seas fantasy come true.”

Initially a private residence that in 15 years has morphed into Playa del Carmen’s finest beach resort, the Shangri-La is an escapist’s South Seas fantasy come true. The fanciful Robinson Crusoe-style thatched cabañas of one to three stories are carefully set among mature palms and tropical plantings along paths that meander down to the sea. Seventy rooms and suites share two pools and restaurants, a café, bar and pool room, library and PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) dive shop.

Here one can be as private and vegetative as possible, whiling away the time under a palapa, at poolside or in a cabana hammock, occasionally venturing off to excellent meals at the resort’s attractive restaurants. Or you can engage in an exhausting array of diversions, beginning with trips into town to browse the silver and craft shops, or dine in a variety of international restaurants. There are ferry rides to the isle of Cozumel, excursions to the incredible Mayan ruins of Tulum and Cobá, diving lessons and excursions, as well as snorkeling, windsurfing and swimming in the warm turquoise waters of the Caribbean. South on Highway 307 lie the newish Mayan theme park of Xcaret, and Xel-Ha, a great lagoon for snorkeling. And even further south is the pristine Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, a protected coastal wildlife area and World Heritage Site.

On our two visits to the Shangri-La, we became so relaxed that we ventured off on only a few excursions, once to revisit the impressive Chichen Itza ruins, a pleasant three-hour drive away, and on another occasion to reconnoiter the ex-henequen haciendas of Yucatán State — both trips quite worthwhile.

Overlooking patio or balcony, rooms at the Shangri-La are simply furnished, with two double or king-size beds, tile floors, ceiling fans and colonial-style furniture. The bathrooms sport colorful Mexican tile and all the balconies have hammocks and table and chairs. Our second story balcony was often visited by colorful tropical birds and an occasional scampering gecko.

Included in the room rate, breakfasts and dinners at Shangri-La are particularly abundant — dinner entrées have featured lobster tails and yummy seafood pastas. Mariachis serenade at a weekly dinner buffet, and other dining-room visitors might include a mapache (raccoon), who nightly entertained us from the rafters, and two friendly hotel cats, who always arrived at dinnertime.

The Shangri-La attracts an international clientele and on Coco Beach you’re as likely to hear Italian, German or Spanish as you are English. Would we return to this seaside Mayan paradise? Oh yes. Like next year.

Shangri-La Caribe: tel. 800/538-6802; www.mexicoholiday.com.

Gale Randall is a freelance travel writer based in Palo Alto, Calif.

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