by Marian Jane Sanders

o millions of people around the world, Graceland is the lavish home Elvis built for himself in Memphis, Tennessee, or perhaps Paul Simon’s 1986 Grammy-winning album of the same name. But for my partner and me, the name conjures up more personal memories: our romantic evening at the Graceland Inn, a restored Victorian mansion nestled in the hills of central West Virginia.

The inn is just outside the bustling little town of Elkins, on the campus of Davis & Elkins College. It’s a peaceful retreat from the town, which is a bit of a tourist center. We visited during a school vacation, and enjoyed a quiet stay on the virtually deserted campus.

Graceland was built in the early 1880s as a lavish summer home for US Senator Henry Gassaway Davis, who named it after his youngest daughter, Grace. It was sold in 1941 to the college, used as a residence hall until 1971, then closed until the early 1990s. It was then restored, and opened for guests in 1996. Soon after, it was designated a National Historic Landmark.

The inn retains the style and luxury of its early days. The Queen Anne-style structure is a majestic melding of turrets, columns, and varied roof lines. Inside, indigenous hardwoods, including maple, cherry, and walnut prevail. The stairwell and second floor feature original stained-glass windows.

Silk chairs and oriental carpets decorate the lobby, which looks out on a large patio and the hills beyond. In the parlor and library, guests can explore original paintings, photographs, and other items belonging to the Davis family. An open, sweeping grand staircase leads to 11 guest rooms that occupy the top three floors. All rooms include antiques or Victorian reproductions and private bathrooms. Some offer balconies with views of the mountains.

Romantic touches included a queen-sized bed topped with a crocheted canopy … and a wall niche displaying fine old English china.

We stayed in Grace’s Suite, featuring an octagonal bedroom chamber with a sitting room that had its own door for privacy, and a lovely antique writing desk. From the corner of the main room, we had a view of the valley. Romantic touches included a queen-sized bed topped with a crocheted canopy, a vase of fresh flowers on the fireplace mantel, and a wall niche displaying fine old English china.
Our bathroom was an oasis of pristine tranquility. Modern fixtures, marble-lined walls, and hand-milled soap turned a long soak in the tub into a spa-like experience.

For dinner, we decided to drive to the rustic Cheat River Inn, a few miles from Elkins on the banks of the Cheat River. At the time, we had no qualms about forsaking the elegant Mingo Room restaurant at Graceland — we figured we’d eat breakfast there the next morning — in order to see a bit more of rural West Virginia. And the fresh rainbow trout was delicious.

But the next morning, we slept right through breakfast. A 9am deadline for breakfast is just too early when the beds are as comfortable and cozy as they are at Graceland.

We made the most of our last few minutes at the inn, though. We sat on the veranda, looked out on the big oak trees, and savored the fresh mountain air, before saying good-by to our own memorable Graceland.

Graceland Inn: tel. 800/624-3157; www.Gracelandinn.com.

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