by Monica Conrady

f Ireland is the Emerald isle, then Dominica is its Caribbean equivalent. Indeed, this verdant island gives new meaning to the phrase, “the forty shades of green.”

Not to be confused with the Dominican Republic, Dominica — the largest of the Windward chain — lies between the French islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe. One of the most mountainous islands in the Caribbean, it is a land of jagged volcanic peaks, deep valleys, dramatic waterfalls, cascading rivers and streams so numerous they aren’t all named, and tropical foliage so green it dazzles the eye.

Dominica is not a “sun, sand and sea” sort of place. Most of its beaches are of the black-sand variety, there are no big resorts or duty-free shops, and little nightlife to speak of. Its appeal is in its natural splendors, small family-run hotels and inns, and an atmosphere reminiscent of the Caribbean the way it used to be.

Dominica’s capital, Roseau, is a funky, somewhat ramshackle place. The older buildings are wooden and have intricately carved balconies overhanging the sidewalks. The old market, formerly a slave trading site, is now a crafts market with a tourist information center. The “new” market is near the river. Vera’s Guest House on Cork Street was the birthplace of Jean Rhys, of Wide Sargasso Sea fame. The streets have London names — Hanover Street, King George V Street, Drury lane — a reminder of Dominica’s days as a British colony.

With just a few days to spare, we headed to the mountains and the Papillote Wilderness Retreat. In this rainforest setting, surrounded by towering foliage-covered peaks, we felt as if we had dropped into some tropical Garden of Eden.

… an atmosphere reminiscent of the Caribbean the way it used to be.

Guest rooms are rustic, with simple, island-made furniture and spectacular views. Natural hot mineral pools are a feature — two for hotel guests and another for the use of day visitors. Papillote is famous for its gardens, where footpaths and terraces lead to many delightful discoveries. Frequent rain showers, so fine they’re called liquid sunshine, keep the air sweet and the greenery vibrant. The food is Dominican style and excellent; the rum punches are powerful.

A short walk away is Trafalgar Falls, one of Dominica’s main — and more accessible — attractions. Tumbling 140 feet into fern-lined pools below, half of the falls is icy cold, but the other half is a delicious 104 degrees. Chair-sized rocks make it nature’s perfect hot tub, but due to a big landslide, we didn’t get to try it out.

The island has several spectacular dive sites, including one called “champagne,” where divers swim through bubbling waters created by volcanic activity on the sea bed. Excellent local dive operators arrange both diving and scuba diving trips.

Only the most intrepid visitors endure the arduous, eight-hour hike to the Valley of Desolation and Boiling Lake, led by knowledgeable local guides. But there are many other delightful, and easier, walks for the rest of us.

The Carib Indian Territory, on the northeast coast, is home to the descendents of the Caribbean’s fiercest tribe. Several small shops sell the popular Carib baskets and straw mats, and it’s possible to stay overnight in simple accommodations.

Dominica is not everybody’s cup of tea, but for adventurous souls and those who seek a glimpse of the Caribbean’s wilder side, this is the place.

Papillote Wilderness Retreat: www.papillote.dm. Dominica Tourism: www.dominica.dm.

Return to: Current articles, Top, Home.