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Touring Mexico's
Copper Canyon

by Donna Schmidt

ack your flair for adventure and board the Chihuahua al Pacifico train in El Fuerte, Mexico. As it winds its way through the states of Sinaloa and Chihuahua in the Sierra Madre Mountains, the ever-changing scenery from desert cactus to vibrant green pines reveals the beauty of the Copper Canyon, named for its original copper mines.

The train stops for a wonderful stay and delicious lunch at the charming Mission Hotel in Cerocahui. The bus ride from the train station to this hotel, on a twisted road, is in itself a trip to remember. Lumpy, bumpy, rutty, and gouged, the road took us further and further from civilization.

Lumpy, bumpy, rutty, and gouged, the road took us further and further from civilization.

Refreshed after a casual lunch, we agreed that the challenging bus to this remote area was worth it. Once in Cerocahui, we visited the inside of the Tarahumara’s cave dwellings. The Tarahumara Indians are a shy and gracious people whose ancestors date back to the Aztecs. The large cave we observed was formed by two giant rocks that housed two families, and it opened to the sky where the rocks did not meet. It was basic and bare, as is the land where the Tarahumara live. It is amazing the way they have adapted to their desolate surroundings.

Inside the spacious cave we found woven baskets and shawls created by the women, who dress in brilliantly colored skirts and tops. Their wares were for sale to tourists.

The Tarahumara use water from a small nearby waterfall and their children walk as far as 20 miles to attend school. We were fascinated by the colors of their clothes and their uncomplicated life style. No TV, no computers, no dishwashers, no telephones — no frills at all. Yet they seemed to want for nothing and appeared more content than many people in our “sophisticated” society. This visit inspired us to reevaluate our own values.

Our next stop was Posada Barrancas Mirador, a true cliff-hanger. This gorgeous terra-cotta hotel clings to the cliffs overhanging the Canyon. Views change with the light, making this a photographers’ and hikers’ paradise. It can be a challenge for those who have a fear of heights, though. At 7,000 feet, the air is thin, so we needed to walk slowly.

The hotel has no elevator and all rooms are uphill, but worth the walk. Each of the large rooms offers its own balcony for viewing the canyon. Meals, served in the main lobby are excellent — our meal was baked fish and rice — and the service gracious. Tarahumara runners (famous for their ability to run long distances, even out-distancing wild animals) are captured in massive oil canvases that hang against terra-cotta walls. Hand-carved imaginative masks of animals and other creatures decorate many walls. But the spectacular view is the memory we took away from El Mirador.

All accommodations on the eleven day trip were first class. We changed locations every day: from simple log cabins to fabulous hotels such as the El Mirador. The tour offers something for everyone, and great meals too. In all, a challenging, romantic, and truly inspiring adventure!

For information contact your travel agent or local tour operator.

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Tarahumara Indian Crafts

Herman Schmidt photo


The Tarahumara's Cave
Herman Schmidt photo