by Monica Conrady

Mention you're going to Bhutan and most likely you'll get a puzzled expression or a blank stare. Friends have heard of it but can't quite place it. Not surprising really, since this remote and hard-to-get-to country isn't exactly on the tourist trail.

Sandwiched between the giants, India and China, the tiny Buddhist Kingdom of Bhutan is called Druk Yul by the locals-- in English, Land of the Thunder Dragon.

The sense of being somewhere special starts the moment you fly into Paro …

It was only in the early 1960's that Bhutan first stepped into the 20th century. Until then, there were no roads, and much of the country was accessible only by horse or on foot. There was also no electricity, hospitals, schools, telephones or postal service, and virtually no contact with the outside world. Things have changed but, happily, at a slow and cautious pace.

The sense of being somewhere special starts the moment you fly in to Paro, home to Bhutan's one and only airport and the only flat piece of land in the entire country. You are surrounded by towering, snow-capped peaks, the air is crystal clear and the Terminal is a traditional Bhutanese-style building. Officials are dressed in their national costume-for men a <gho>, a belted, knee-length robe worn with long socks and polished shoes; for women a <kira>, a jacket and colorful, ankle-length, wrapped skirt. We felt as though we'd landed in some magical, Himalayan-style Switzerland.

Our first hotel, the Gangtey Palace, overlooking the town of Paro, was a gem. Over 100 years old, it was owned by the Royal Family until the 1930s, and eventually converted into hotel. It was a great introduction to our Bhutanese adventure.

There were six of us in our group, all from the San Francisco Bay Area. We traveled by private minivan with a guide, a driver and a preplanned itinerary--Bhutan permits no independent travel. Rabten, our driver, was a good and careful driver-reassuring on those windy mountain roads. Dorji, our guide, was a charming man, very knowledgeable, with a great sense of humor.

We were to spend the next 10 days together, making delightful discoveries.

In Thimpu. Bhutan's tiny capital, we visited the National Library, the Institute for Zorig Chusam-the painting and woodcraft school, and the School of Traditional Medicine. We stopped at the Post Office for stamps-which make excellent souvenirs.

Driving west, we climbed to the Dochu-la Pass which, at over 10,000 feet was cloaked in cloud. Prayer flags fluttered in the mist. As we descended, we spotted masses of wild rhododendrons in full bloom-a beautiful sight.

Most days we visited a dzong-the massive fortress-like monasteries built in the 17th century -which today are half monastery and half administrative center. If it weren't for the electricity, indoor plumbing and cell phones, we could still be back in the 17th century. We see monks of all ages dressed in flowing saffron or red robes going about their business. We get invited to watch them pray and chant. The little ones can't resist peeping and smiling at us when the head monk isn't looking.

We marvel at the houses and buildings, all decorated in traditional style with intricate wood carvings and painted with animals, flowers and Buddhist motifs.

I doubt there's a plain structure in the whole country.

One of the highlights of our trip was meeting Dorgi's family. We met them for dinner-his wife and six-year old daughter, and his brother with wife and baby. Dorji's little girl sang us songs she learned in school-in English. Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star and Ten Green Bottles were her favorites.

The 10 days went by in a flash. It seems no time at all before we were back at Paro Airport, waving a sad farewell to Dorji. Bhutan had caught us in its spell.

Bhutan Tourism: www.kingdomofbhutan.com

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